4BaYwbnQp8Q Allowing your puppy to meet and greet other
dogs, allows your puppy to build up a language of communication with those other dogs. It’s
really important now to not only socialize your puppy with other puppies, but with adult
dogs too. And, again, I do this on the leash. I’m using my dog Sadie here. It’s really interesting,
because when Sadie sniffed just then, she was sniffing were Mojo had toilted. So she
was getting information about him before she even met him. Again, you can see, that they’re
greeting each first by sniffing each other around the face, and then Sadie wanted to
get information about Mojo by sniffing his behind. All the time, these dogs are picking
up information about each other. Mojo is giving Sadie a really nice calming signal, just lying
down, saying “Hey, I’m no threat. Don’t be a threat to me.” Sadie is a real ground sniffer.
She gets a lot of her information about her world by sniffing on the ground around her.
This is especially important if you’ve got a dog that’s nervous of greeting other dogs.
If you just have your dog in an area, sniffing where that other dog that you want it to greet
has been, that means that your dog is already getting information about the other dog that
they’re going to greet. Again, Joyce and I are keeping the leashes very, very relaxed.
I wouldn’t do this kind of greeting with extendable leashes or really, really long leashes — I
think a 4 to 6 foot leash is enough, because you don’t want to get those leashes tangled.
The longer they are the more tangled they’re gonna get. I think we can get to the point
now where we can let them both off. Good. This is nice now, because Sadie is really
investigating Mojo. Now they’re going nose to nose. Mojo is giving submission. This was
really good, because Mojo was going on his back, submitting. But see how he wasn’t being
forced by Sadie. He did it under his own volition, and he did it just to tell her “I’m no threat
to you. Please don’t be a threat to me” by the showing the most vulnerable parts of him,
which is his stomach. And Sadie then sniffed him. She was wanting, again, to get more information
about him. You’ll find that with older dogs, and Sadie’s a pretty old dog, she’s about
11-years-old now, that you’ll find that puppies tend to follow older dogs around. And in a
way it’s nice, because Sadie is a pretty laid back dog, and she’s also giving him signals
and teaching him. So, she’s also telling him that she’s no threat by turning her head away,
averting her eyes, walking away from him. But she’s also allowing him to be close to
her. And you need a good teacher like this. I think it’s really important that puppies
don’t just get to socialize with other puppies, but that they also get to socialize with older
dogs that can teach them lessons. If your dog does not get important socialization,
your dog will never know how to interact appropriately with other dogs. So socialization like this
is so important. If you didn’t do anything else with your dog, socialization is the most
important thing to do, because it sets your puppy up for a lifetime of being able to cope
with other dogs coming into its area, greeting other dogs, hanging out with other dogs, going
to doggy daycare, going on walks with other dogs, having other dogs into their home on
their territory. If you do not socialize a puppy before it’s 16- -weeks-old, in general,
what you’ll have find is that puppy doesn’t learn canine language, and it becomes much
harder for that puppy to be able to greet other dogs. If you can socialize your puppy
to other dogs and other puppies before 16-weeks-old, and that puppy has great experiences, that
is going to be the most important lesson that your puppy can learn. And that’s how you socialize
your puppy, positively. I’m Victoria Stilwell for eHow Pets.